Critics’ choice: Restaurants worthy of their buzz

Bon Délire

San Francisco

In our proud city by the bay, this new bistro on the Embarcadero is “one of the hippest places to be right now,” said Cesar Hernandez in the San Francisco Chronicle. Bon Délire has “tapped into what the people of San Francisco are craving: a fun spot in a historic area” with food of “exceptional quality” and a steady soundtrack of classic hip-hop and R&B.

Chef Vernon Morales proves daily why France’s greatest hits are timeless, and “it’s his subtle touch that helps make them pop.” His chicken croquettes “radiate with meatiness,” and he subs out béchamel for Parmesan shavings in his croque madame “to better preserve the ham sandwich’s crispiness.” Still, “the bistro’s handsome setting is what really sets the mood.” There’s always a crowd at the zinc-plated, horseshoe-shaped bar, sipping martinis or butter-washed palomas, and “the amount of feel-good energy could probably power one of the nearby ferries.” The tables go quiet only when the made-to-order madeleines arrive for dessert. “Buttery, tender, and delicately crisp,” they’re a must-order. Pier 3, the Embarcadero.

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Chez Fifi

New York City

“New York does not want for French bistros,” said Matthew Schneier in NYMag.com. At this moment, for fair enough reasons, “Fifi is the one to visit.” After weeks of trying to get in, I called upon a friend to score us a reservation at Fifi’s 40-seat mahogany-paneled dining room in a converted Upper East Side town house and quickly picked up whispers of celebrity sightings: Chris Rock and Sacha Baron Cohen on one recent night, and Jon Hamm when I visited.

Chef Zack Zeidman “trusts that the French classics will sell themselves,” and you’d be wise to go with classics when you order. The escargots are “letter-perfect,” and the steak frites, featuring filet mignon au poivre, is both a standout dish and a relative bargain at $69. (A half roast chicken rings in at $70.) “Lounge long enough, and the room’s coziness creeps up on you, as do the solicitous staff and attentive drinks menu.” Other spots, including nearby Orsay, offer the same bistro classics. But if you crave buzz and scene as much as foie gras and omelets, Chez Fifi is, for now, unmissable. 140 E. 74th St.

Vecino

Detroit

“The effort put into this restaurant should be applauded,” said Melody Baetens in The Detroit News. Located in a handsome limestone building in Cass Corridor that had been empty for half a century, this “modern and moody” Mexico City–inspired newcomer “appeals to all of your senses,” from the velvet touch of the black curtains at the entrance to the “enchanting” Spanish-language soundtrack to the aromas emerging from the open-hearth kitchen. And “while the dining room is as comfortable as it is beautiful, it’s the food that really impresses.”

The masa-based half of the menu features house-made corn dough in all shapes and textures. Highlights include the tlayuda (a Oaxacan flatbread with sirloin, cheese, and chorizo) and the tuna tostada, which has a large portion of raw tuna dressed with fried leeks, dollops of creamy avocado, and chipotle aioli. From the hearth, the signature duck enchilada is “as impressive-looking as it is impressive-tasting,” leaving no mystery as to why Esquire named Vecino in its most recent best new restaurants list. 4100 3rd Ave.